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I’D HEARD whispers from fellow travellers of a mythical little town on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, boasting Maldives-blue water, no crowds, and a substantially cheaper price tag.
Seduced by descriptions that likened it to a Caribbean island paradise, we swiftly ditched the tequila-soaked clubs of Cancun and Tulum and chanced the bus ride south to this rumoured nirvana called Bacalar.
The first thing I noticed as we arrived was the distinct lack of ocean. Situated 340km south of Cancun International Airport, near the Belize border, Bacalar is 20km from the coast. The dazzling depictions that lured us here come from a vast freshwater lagoon that the town overlooks, fed by underground springs. But with the sun sinking behind us, there was no such oasis in sight, nor our hotel.
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Driving around the town’s delightfully dilapidated streets, we passed a series of bustling Mexican eateries, craft stores, and colourful, crumbling street art. At its heart towers the historic Fortress de San Felipe Bacalar, built in the 1700s to defend the town against recurrent pirate attacks. Today however, the fort serves as a regional landmark and museum of colonial-era weapons, artefacts, even a pirate skeleton.
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We finally arrived at our lodging in the dark, with the distant sound of lapping water and not much else. Already Bacalar is a welcome respite from the relentless flashing, queuing, and thudding seen on the Mexican tourist trail further north.
The next morning, we almost beat the sun to rise, itching to get a glimpse of the vista that brought us here. We rushed out the door to the shoreline, and there it was, in all her glittering glory: Laguna Bacalar. Praise be! The extreme shades of turquoise are fringed with mangrove jungles and thatched-roof pontoon.
Laguna Bacalar is 42km long and just 2km at its widest, and the best way to explore it is by boat, so off we set across the blinding horizon. Also known as the “Lake of Seven Colours”, the lagoon’s distinct shades of blue are the result of vastly different water depths, our guide explained. Thanks to a series of underwater cenotes (aka sinkholes), the water abruptly shifts from vivid aquamarine, so clear you can see the white sand below, to an ominously dark navy, plummeting more than 60m below.
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There are about 7000 of these naturally formed pits that dot the Yucatán Peninsula, created over time where limestone has collapsed to expose a pool of groundwater underneath. Not usually submerged in a lagoon, but found draped in vines or hidden in caves, cenotes have become part of the immense pulling power of Mexico’s photogenic Caribbean Coast. But around the peninsula’s party capitals, these curious swimming holes have become fraught with queues and screaming kids. Here in Bacalar however, the novelty of swimming over the lip of a cenote is almost a solo experience.
Later, we made our way to the sulphur-scented shallows of the lagoon with its mineral-rich sand almost like clay in consistency, making for an effective body scrub.
In fact, the waters of Bacalar are so rich in minerals that little wildlife can survive here. Aside from a few resilient fish, the dominant population is migratory birds from Canada, who inhabit just one small island in the lagoon for a couple months, surviving off rock minerals.
It’s an unparalleled vision, shared only with a few kayakers.
Back on land, we watched the lagoon’s vibrant hues change with the setting sun from the waterfront deck at La Playita restaurant. With mescals in hand, we toasted to discovering this glistening beauty off the Yucatan’s tourist path, proving even more magic than the rumours.
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ESCAPE ROUTE
BACALAR
Getting there: Cancun International Airport to Bacalar is only 340km, but it’s a five-hour bus ride with ADO Autobuses, which also stop in Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum.
Staying there: There are plenty of lakefront lodgings beyond the town centre, but be aware that without hordes of tourists to cater for, the local transport system is limited. Toto Blue Hotel Boutique features nine beautifully-appointed rooms in the heart of town, while Centro Holistico Akal Ki comes with a lakefront locale and dreamy accommodation, as well as a 20-minute bike ride from town.
Eating: Sample authentic Mexican fare at Cafetería Laguna, or for a more upscale experience, La Playita has an enviable menu of Mexican classics, comfort food, and cocktails.
Activities: Go on a boat tour with Cuco’s Tours, kayak with Active Nature, go cavern diving at Cenote Azul, situated at the lake’s southern tip and plunging 90 metres, or explore nearby Mayan ruins like Kohunlich.
Source: news.com.au